Uneasy feelings

The notice posted on the door at the marina said 'Storm Warning' 60-90kph winds. However the combined wisdom of all our usual forecast sites suggested that all was well for the two and a half hour trip to Kalkan.

So we set off with new crew Helena and Lucy. It was almost eerie that there were no other boats out. No yachts, no gulets, no day-trip boats, just us. However our forecasts were right and we had a peaceful trip. However the thunderstorms are looming.

Batten down the hatches.

Shelter from the Medicane

A new word! 'Medicane'. A Mediterranean hurricane. The stories from the Ionian and the Greek mainland are quite frankly scary.

Fortunately we are far enough down the Turkish coast that we have just been experiencing the thunder, lightning and torrential rain. The forecast suggests that the worst of the storm will continue to be well north of us, but lots more thunderstorms for a couple of days.

Welcome Helena and Lucy! Due tonight.

Gorging on history

Another land based exploration today.

First the Saklikent Gorge, which is a deep cleft formed by a fault in the mountain range. The icy water is in places a torrent, in others a fordable brisk stream. Dramatic scenery and numb toes.

Second stop Xanthos, which was the key Lycian City 500BC. It has a tragic history in which the inhabitants committed mass suicide rather than be captured by the encircling enemy. It includes a large theatre, a distinguishable town layout with broad streets, and famous tombs including the tall 'Harpy Tomb'. What we saw today is a copy. The original is in the Xanthos room in the British Museum, thanks to Charles Fellowes.

An impressive aspect of the ruins is the plumbing. Drains and water pipes are clearly visible throughout.

The Russians are coming, no they’re here

Sheltering from high winds today, we are tucked up in Kas marina and rented a car.

First visit was Myra with its rock tombs and enormous theatre. I tried to pick up one of the information leaflets and they were all in Russian. All the tour groups with their numbered badges were also Russian. The prices in the gift shop are no longer shown in GBP or Euro.

Next was St Nicholas Church in Demre- the original Santa Claus. The tomb in the photo was robbed by fishermen from Bari, where they still parade his bones annually. The Russians in the photo were having a religious service - St Nicholas being an important Orthodox personage.

Finally Andriake, the ancient port of Myra, where St Paul changed ship on the voyage towards Rome that ended in his shipwreck. It was impressive and strange. Apart from workmen digging up an old column we were the only visitors at a wonderful atmospheric site. The photo is from a huge underground cistern.

The bread boat

Yesterday involved leaving KaleKoy and making our way to Bayinder Bay near Kas, with its tall cliffs dotted with caves and rock tombs.

KaleKoy is a strange little place. There is no road and no modern development. Apparently it is mostly owned by a wealthy family who don't want it to be spoiled.

One little repercussion is that it is totally reliant on supplies coming in by boat from nearby Uçağız. We watched the women from the tiny shop, and from each of the pensions and restaurants, queue up in the morning on the old stone jetty waiting to be given their allocation of bread fresh from the delivery boat (which looked as if it spent the rest of the day as a fishing boat).

Sun, moon, but few stars

One of the only stars visible last night was the twirling girl on the next jetty at sunset.

The harvest moon rose on cue, and was duly followed by a glorious sunrise this morning.

An early departure to beat the forecast winds had us in Bayinder Bay near Kas before lunch. The cliffs overlooking the bay have more Lycian tombs, and the shelter is good. The lights of Kas are twinkling in the distance, and we'll see them close-up tomorrow.

KaleKoy

Overlooking the inner sea of Kekova Roads is the castle of ancient Simena, now KaleKoy. It was a settlement from at least 500BC, but I'm sure much earlier.

The Crusader castle seems to have been built on an old Lycian stronghold as a Lycian rock tomb is incongruously peeping out below some battlements.

The theatre is tiny, but the views from it are magnificent. Dayboats drop sightseers all day, but by the end of the afternoon we had the castle to ourselves.