Fifty Shades of Grey

Or four or five at least, ranging down the mountains off the port bow as we left Gemiler Island this morning. 

After an overflowing holding tank caused our leisurely start to be cut short, we set out to follow the course plotted by this guest blogger (and guest skipper) from Gemiler to Tomb Bay. Following Helena's expert hoking of the anchor chain, and Allen's nifty removal of the shore lines there was no holding us back. 

Today we also welcomed a new guest on board, in the form of Stanley the Seesaw. First spotted as a floating blue-green blob, later misidentified as as an inflatable crocodile, we eventually hauled him to safety in a man over board manoeuvre under sail. He doesn't say much, but we're hoping to at least dispose of him in a suitable manner so that he doesn't turn in to fish food. 

Later, crossing Skopea Limani we spotted what appeared to be a yacht regatta, and on our arrival in Tomb Bay we were faced with a difficult decision - spend the night with the 160 Russian sailors on their thirty yachts who were currently racing their way in our direction, or in the words of Fat Sam, "come back tomorrow"...

Needless to say, we chose the latter, and instead got to enjoy the entertainment of the repeated failure of another yacht to anchor at Twenty-Two Fathom Cove - from our own spot near the beach, we watched as they picked up a mooring buoy and nearly drifted back in to the cliff wall. Said buoy later got dragged a significant distance offshore from its starting point before they gave up and tried with the anchor; this attempt also aborted, they sailed off out of our line of sight, so we could no longer gawp at their ineptitude and bask in our own superiority. 

With no further distractions, cake and bread were acquired from the Organik Mobile Market, the boat was swum around and under, the view was enjoyed, rummy was played, gin was drunk, carbonara was consumed and this was blogged. Chocolate cake and baklava are still to come. 

Oops - whirling cloud finger

The indistinct photo sent earlier shows a menacing whirling finger reaching down from the clouds - like an incipient twister.

Seven/seven/seven

It rained last night in Kalkan. The steep streets became rivers. Thunder echoed around the town and lightning put on a fireworks display for us. Glad to be safely in harbour.

Off at 06:30 this morning for the longer trip past Patara and the Seven Capes. It seemed quirky that on our way to the Seven Capes, at seven o'clock, Lucy helmed us along at a glorious seven knots.

Russian water

Lucy rigged up an ingenious arrangement with umbrella and mosquito net. However the rain beat it in the end.

It has been heavy. Also dramatic lightning.

Whole crew took refuge in a traditional restaurant while the heavens opened.

Sitting now at cocktail hour with lightning all around.

Uneasy feelings

The notice posted on the door at the marina said 'Storm Warning' 60-90kph winds. However the combined wisdom of all our usual forecast sites suggested that all was well for the two and a half hour trip to Kalkan.

So we set off with new crew Helena and Lucy. It was almost eerie that there were no other boats out. No yachts, no gulets, no day-trip boats, just us. However our forecasts were right and we had a peaceful trip. However the thunderstorms are looming.

Batten down the hatches.

Shelter from the Medicane

A new word! 'Medicane'. A Mediterranean hurricane. The stories from the Ionian and the Greek mainland are quite frankly scary.

Fortunately we are far enough down the Turkish coast that we have just been experiencing the thunder, lightning and torrential rain. The forecast suggests that the worst of the storm will continue to be well north of us, but lots more thunderstorms for a couple of days.

Welcome Helena and Lucy! Due tonight.

Gorging on history

Another land based exploration today.

First the Saklikent Gorge, which is a deep cleft formed by a fault in the mountain range. The icy water is in places a torrent, in others a fordable brisk stream. Dramatic scenery and numb toes.

Second stop Xanthos, which was the key Lycian City 500BC. It has a tragic history in which the inhabitants committed mass suicide rather than be captured by the encircling enemy. It includes a large theatre, a distinguishable town layout with broad streets, and famous tombs including the tall 'Harpy Tomb'. What we saw today is a copy. The original is in the Xanthos room in the British Museum, thanks to Charles Fellowes.

An impressive aspect of the ruins is the plumbing. Drains and water pipes are clearly visible throughout.